Language Exchange with Iraqi Refugees

Today was my first day of volunteering with the Fulbright program in Jordan, helping Iraqi refugees practice their English.  Several of the CLS students volunteered to meet with some of the Iraqi refugees who are studying English so that we'd have a chance to practice our Arabic and they'd have a chance to practice their English.

We all met in one of the homes they're living in, in the town of Marka, which is on the outskirts of Amman.  We sat in the living room and were served cookies, soda, and other snacks at the beginning of the meeting.  I was nervous that I wouldn't be able to understand Iraqi Arabic, because it's different than the Jordanian dialect I have been using since I arrived.  However, it turns out that Iraqi dialect is much closer to Modern Standard Arabic, the language of official communications, newscasts and print journalism.  I've only Modern Standard Arabic at college, not any of the dialects, which are what people use to speak to each other in daily life, so communication is a challenge.  Speaking to people in Modern Standard Arabic would be a little like using Shakespearian English in everyday life.  People understand you if you speak to them in MSA, but they think you're pretty weird.  Iraqi dialect sounds a lot like MSA though, so I found it easier to understand than Jordanian.

I spoke first with an Iraqi woman, Omm Ali, (literally Mother of Ali)  who works at a community center for Iraqi refugees, helping them adjust to life in Jordan and also teaching English.  I was hesitant to discuss any kind of political issue since I wasn't sure my Arabic would allow me to say anything substantial and I would just wind up looking ignorant.  As an American I couldn't help feel guilty about what the Bush government did to their country, even if I'm not personally responsible.  All of the refugees I spoke with had family in Baghdad, many had relatives who'd been killed or injured in bombings.   Some of the men I talked to told me they had started practicing their English with American soldiers when they were still living in Iraq.  One man told me how he would have soldiers over to his home for dinner where they would speak in a mixture of English and Iraqi Arabic.  I was surprised to hear how friendly relations between some of the soldiers and Iraqi citizens were, which is not to say that they approve of the war.

Omm Ali said to a friend of mine that it seems like America wants to control the Middle East and asked why so many Americans think they know enough about the region to support the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan when the reality is that most Americans couldn't even find either country on a map.  I have the same question.  Speaking with Omm Ali and some of the Iraqi men was an incredible privilege.  We're meeting again next week on Monday and Wednesday.  I feel so honored that they would invite me, an American, into their homes, despite the unjust war my country is waging on theirs.